Type your address. We pull your home’s records from the county and price it the way a real estimator would — in about a minute.
Square footage, stories, wall type — straight from the county property appraiser. You don't measure anything.
One per side, from your phone. Those score the condition — peeling, chalking, wood that needs work. They never measure the house.
Not a ballpark. A range we stand behind, with the firm number confirmed on a three-minute video walk.
Because anyone who gives you one number sight-unseen is guessing, and the guess is built to be low. We show the band, then confirm the exact figure on a three-minute video walk.
Pick a colour your association has already approved and there is nothing to file. Anything else, we prepare and submit the application for you — $149, and we confirm your community’s current guidelines before we schedule.
Colours and finishes
Your wall type sets the price more than any other single thing, so it is worth knowing which one you have and what it means. Here are the five we price on.
About seven in ten Central Florida houses. Porous, so it drinks more paint than it looks like it should.
Prep: Hairline cracks get filled before anything else. Pressure washing has to dry fully — coating damp stucco is how you get blistering a year later.
Hardie and similar board. Stable, holds a line, and takes paint about as predictably as any exterior surface gets.
Prep: Caulk at the butt joints and where board meets trim. That caulk, not the paint, is usually what fails first.
The cheapest of the five to coat — less surface area per square foot of wall and it is not porous.
Prep: Colour is the constraint, not the labour: going darker than the original absorbs heat and can warp the panel. There is a limit and we will tell you where it is.
The most expensive surface here, and the gap is not small. Clapboard, cedar, T-111.
Prep: Rot gets cut out and replaced, not painted over. Every knot needs a stain-blocking primer or it bleeds through the topcoat within months.
Thirstiest of the five. The porosity is what drives the cost, not the labour.
Prep: Masonry primer first, always. And it is close to permanent — painted brick is very hard to take back, so it is worth being sure.
Most exteriors use two or three of these on the same house — one on the body, a harder one on the trim, sometimes a third on the door.
Stucco body, ceilings
Hides a surface that is not perfectly flat. Harder to scrub, which is why it stays off doors and trim.
Siding body, shutters
The usual compromise. Enough sheen to wipe down, not enough to spotlight every ripple in the wall.
Trim, fascia, soffit, garage door
Sheds water and takes a scrub. On trim it also draws the line between trim and body, which is most of what makes a repaint look sharp.
Front door, handrails, ironwork
Hardest film of the four. It shows every flaw underneath, so it only goes where the prep was perfect.
Not a palette anyone has approved — the families we see associations accept most often, so you know roughly where you are before you ask.
Safest with white or bronze trim
The most widely accepted neutral
Reads warmer in afternoon light
Common on Mediterranean elevations
Usually needs ARC review
Check vinyl heat limits first
Accent or shutters, rarely body
Shutters and doors
These are not colour matches. No two screens show the same colour, and none of them show paint. Pick from a physical fan deck before you commit — we bring one to the walk.
And these are not approvals. Your association keeps its own list. We confirm your community’s current guidelines before we schedule, not after.
Fast Paint Pros is a new company, so there is no wall of photos here and no reviews to point at. What there is instead: a price built from your county’s own records with every adjustment shown, a number that doesn’t move once we’ve given it, and a five-year warranty in writing on everything we prepare and coat.
If being someone’s first few jobs is worth a sharper price to you, say so when we speak — it’s worth it to us too.